We have a choice
20120604102 – from the Uto ni Yalo progressing at an average speed of 9 knots in a south westerly direction. Our nautical chart, which we are plotting every 2-3 hours, shows our path will take us past Wailagilala Atoll in northern Lau [right now we are seeing the island of Niuafo'ou]. There are only two true atolls in Fiji with Wailagilala being one and Qelelevu being the other. The “true” atoll is in a stage of geological development where there’s a ring of raised reefs surrounding a central and shallow lagoon with one or more breaks in this reef which can be used as passages inside. The healthy lagoon has many amazing coral heads and myriad reef fish including good sized sharks. In addition atolls possess one or more “motus’ – small islets, low lying sand areas overgrown with vegetation. The larger ones can support significant plant growth including trees that may be as tall as 50 feet!
Atolls in other archipelagos are often uninhabited as they do not have continual fresh water supplies and thus marine species and in particular sea birds abound. Colonies of terns that number in the millions have been observed. Pacific sea birds breed on motus either on the bare sandy ground, under overlying limestone rocks, in burrows easily excavated in the sand or in shrubs or trees. By sharing available nesting space many more species can utilise existing and precious territory.
For instance Sooty terns lay their eggs on sandy ground with their eggs [shell pattern] blending in with the variegated ground. Fairy or White terns prefer laying their single egg in the elbow created between a tree trunk and an extended branch! Why doesn’t the egg roll off? It’s in the egg shape – it’s not oval but almost conical thus the egg stays put more or less wedged into the elbow. Red-tailed tropic birds, being unable to maneuver on land, nest under exposed limestone slabs which enable them to leave the shelter and fly directly into the wind over the reef. Whereas the White-tailed tropic bird nests high up in the hollows in tree trunks. Red-footed boobies nest in low lying shrubs in a platform nest that both parents help to build out of sticks. Their neighbours in other shrub varieties are the Frigate birds who can simply unfold their wings and from the platform nest simply ease into the wind – a marvel of avian aeronautical “technology”! Not to be outdone both Brown and Masked boobies, larger cousins of the Red-footed ones, nest on bare ground often swept clean by their tails! This gives you an idea as to how so many sea birds can “nest” on one motu.
Many migratory shore birds land along the sandy beaches of these motus and forage for food there. Curlews, godwits,whimbrels, plovers, turnstones, tattlers and sandpipers are but a few of the species that have been observed there.In the northern Hawaiian chain it would not be uncommon to find green sea turtles and monk seals in the hundreds sharing sand quays. On French Frigate Shoals they share common areas with many sea bird species. Hopefully one day in the not too distant future we in Fiji can enjoy observing that many sea turtles in one area.
Observing animals in their natural habitat is a joy. It is more soothing and certainly more therapeutic than watching television! There is something that leaves a person in awe when, like today, a Phoenix petrel flew by and shared a few moments with us. It almost seemed like it was relishing being able to fly. This is said knowing that we tend to anthropomorphise animal behaviour [give them human intentions and feelings]. I will risk the “slings and arrows” of those who claim science answers all questions and say that this medium sized sea bird was reveling in the wind. It would glide along the wave trough, dip one wing as if in a salute and then lift out and soar only to repeat itself over and over! Sure it was searching for surface food. I know it’s “only” a bird, but better to possess the willingness to suspend disbelief and allow the bird to “enjoy” flight than to over-analyse and take the imagination out of it!
This morning our paths crossed a pod of 5 small sperm whales, identified by their left and forward “blow”. It reminded us of our first magical encounter with these uncommon cetaceans when we crossed the equator with another pod. There is something almost metaphysical about watching these wonderfully adapted mammals cruise the oceans with virtually no fear of man. Can something be both heartening and sad at the same time? We have been so fortunate in being able to encounter all kinds of marine life [a summary will be shared at a later date] in our journey, but at the same time not seeing some species where we had anticipated seeing them. We shudder to think this may be a sign of things to come. An omen, perhaps a dirge to all those marine animals gone because of our human greed, lack of wisdom and stewardship and simply because we didn’t care until it was too late.
We still have a choice. Will it be the cacophony of sea bird colonies; the hiss and spray of whales surfacing; the thrill of watching an eight foot marlin perform a tail walk or simply the “hold your breath” feeling one gets as a 10 foot hammerhead shark swims underneath him OR will it be a poem somewhere in some little read tome that laments the passing of these marine marvels???? Tabu soro friends it’s still up to you. In sports – the ball is squarely in your court what ever happens, it’s on your shoulders! Fiji here we come!